New Town, New Friends, and Lost...

My first night in Kyoto I got in around 5:00. I was hanging out in the lobby area and met a couple guys. There names were Rowan and Alex. Rowan was from the UK but is currently living in Melbourne, Australia. Alex is from Quebec, Canada. We decided we would all get dinner together in Kyotos downtown area.

We spent a good hour just walking around and trying to find somewhere to eat. The problem was that it was difficult to find a place that was cheap, offered a lot of food and had english menus with pictures. Eventually we found a place that we thought met all 3 criteria. They had an English menu, the prices were reasonable and we just crossed our fingers and hoped the meals were of good size. The thing about Japan is that sometimes the portions are incredibly small. I would say that in some cases (okay, many cases) the appetizers in the United States are bigger than the full meals in Japan. I have noticed this in particular at more expensive places.

When we got our food we realized why it was so cheap. The food tasted great. But the portions were tiny. I didn't really feel any different after the meal than I did before. So we headed to the local convenient store to get a more substantial dinner.
This is Rowan after he got some food from the convenient store

After that we headed to a bar to grab a drink. I met an Australian named Chris. Chris was 35 years old and this was his first time travelling by himself. He had just finished a mountain bike excursion across Mongolia. On a whim he decided to come to Japan for about a week. I enjoyed talking with him and hearing his story. He had a 10 year old daughter that he said he was beginning to really miss. Him and the mother had separated. He didn't go into detail but I appreciated his honesty and sincerity. We had a good old fashioned man bond.

From left to right (Chris, Me, Rowan, and Alex)

On the way back Rowan thought it would be a good idea to follow the river for a while. I thought this was a good idea too until we got lost. We were walking on the street to head back to our hostel and all of a sudden all of us realized that something just seemed wrong. It was taking way too long. During this time Rowan had been doing most of the navigating. Alex and I had pretty much remained quiet. I had given one piece of advice that turned out wrong. Eventually Alex spoke up. Since he he had remained silent thus far (meaning he hadn't been incorrect yet) I decided to jump on his ship and let him be captain. Eventually we found our way back.

What did I learn? First off always bring a map of my own. Second, never leave navigation up to the guy that got you lost in the first place. Third, always ask the really quiet guy his opinion. Fourth, I like the slang in Australian English.

Training with Suganuma Sensei

Today I had the opportunity to train in Fukuaka city. The class was lead by Suganuma Sensei. Suganuma was the last student to be an Uchi Gaeshi for O'sensei. I will give a little background. O'sensei is the person that created the art of Aikido. O'sensei's name is Morihei Ueshiba. O'sensei died in 1963. An Uchi Gaeshi is a student that lives inside the dojo. The student trains much of the day. When they are not training they are doing whatever the sensei asks of them (often cleaning, running chores, etc). So Suganuma Sensei was the very last student to be an Uchi Gaeshi (live in student) for O'sensei. Suganuma is very well respected in the world of Aikido.

The training today was excellent. I was brought to this dojo by a friend of the hostel receptionist. I had spoke with the receptionist yesterday about Aikido. He called his friend and his friend picked me up this morning. We then went to Aikido together. When I entered the dojo all of the students looked toward me and bowed at me. This is a way of welcoming me to the dojo. I felt very welcomed. At the same time it was a little bit intimidating having everyone in the dojo bow toward me (there was about 20 students). This is the only Aikido dojo I have ever been to that while we were doing stretches (the first 15 minutes of class) all students stretch the left side at the same time and the right side at the same time. In most Aikido dojos we all do the same stretches but which side you do is not relevant. In this dojo it mattered. I know this because I got corrected. This shows the intensity and structure of the training at this dojo.

The training itself was excellent. It was very fast paced. This is the most fast paced training I have done. After we did a technique the sensei would quickly say "HI!" then immediately start modeling the next technique. He did not wait for the students to take position. He also only did the technique 4 times. Then we bowed to a partner and trained. There was no talking on his part when he showed the technique.

When it was time for me to leave the dojo I went to bow out and once again every student in the dojo (about 20 students) turned toward me and bowed. I felt honored but a little embarrassed by the attention. I didn't do anything to deserve this. I guess this is how they treat guests at their dojo. It made me feel very welcome.

When I got down to the changing room I decided that I wanted to give Suganuma Sensei a postcard from my hometown. In Japan, gift giving is a very big deal. It is much more common than in the states. I thought this would be a good way to show my appreciation. I wrote on the back "Thank you for letting me train. I enjoyed it very much. -Izmael Arkin"
He did not speak any English but I knew that someone there could translate it for him. I went up and bowed to him and handed him the postcard. I think that he appreciated it.

Acts of Kindness

Yesterday I got back from Miyajima around 10 pm. This meant that some of the trains were no longer running. I had to figure out a route to get back to my hostel that was different from what I had initially planned. I took a look at the subway map and realized rather than taking one train I could do it by taking 2 trains with a transfer. I figured that was easy enough.

I got onto the number 8 train and then shifted over to the number 3 train. After a few stops I realized that I was on the 3 train that was going in the opposite direction of my hostel. At this point it was about 11 pm. I got off at the next stop. As I became aware of the problem I stood up and moved around the train quite a bit. I was looking for maps. It must have been apparent that I was lost because when I got off the train a Japanese woman got off with me and said "are you okay? Are you lost?" I smiled and told her "I'm fine I just have been going in the wrong direction. I just need to take the 3 train going the other way." She said "are you sure?" I said "Yes I'm fine". She went on her way and I went over to check the schedule. It said that a train should show up in the next 15 minutes. A train didn't show up… I then took a look at the schedule again. Next to the time that it was supposed to be there was a blue mark that was written in kanji (japanese characters). I later learned this meant that the 3 train only went one direction at this time (not the direction I was going).

The next train that came I asked the person if the 3 train was supposed to come. He spoke a small amount of english. He said "3 train" then crossed his arms. In Japan crossing ones arms means no. It's like when we shake our head. I said "chuden mae". That was my stop that I needed to get to. He said "come". So I got on. I then went to the back and asked the conductor in the back "does the 3 train hit any of these stops?" He said "no". I then walked away and went to look at the map. As I was looking at the map he came over to me and said "where are you trying to go?" I was relieved because I could tell his english was good. I told him and he said "Oh. Okay, you need to get off here and get on train 0". He then explained to me exactly where we were and the number of stops until I got off. He then also explained to me the number of stops it would take until I reached my Chuden Mae. Then when it came time for my stop he got out of the train and walked me over to the other train. All of this was done out of pure kindness. In case there are some doubters I do want to explain that concept of tipping does not exist here (so he wasn't doing it for that).

Then today when I got into Fukuoka city I was walking and this old man saw me looking at a map. He said "you going hostel?" I said "yeah". He smiled and said "by my house. I walk with you." We talked while we walked. He is a chemist. He walked me right to the corner where my hostel was.

Then when I got to my hostel I asked the person at the counter "Do you know of any Aikido dojos in the area?" He said that he didn't but his friend did Aikido. He then pulled out his friend and called him. He handed me the phone and I spoke with him. His name was Shun. Shun told me that he would come to the hostel tomorrow around 10 and he would take me to his dojo.

These are all examples of some of the kind deeds that have happened to me along the way of this trip. I have just been shocked by some of the kindness I have received from the Japanese people. The thing that continues to impress me is how much people have gone out of their way to help me.

A Japanese Onsen

I will give a little background to this story. While in Nagoya I have been hosted by my good friend Ron Taw. I met Taw 4 years ago. He was my math coach when I began teaching at Los Angeles Academy. For the first year of knowing each other Taw and I kept everything very professional. We had no idea that we could actually like each other. The following year our professional demeanors had been dismissed. My theory is that our friendship developed by a slow series of socially inappropriate “slip ups” by both Taw and myself where we began to realize we found each other funny. Taw and I began to hang out after school. About once a month Taw and I would drive to school together in the morning. We then would head down to Long Beach together. We would head down to another fellow teacher’s place (Jimmy P) and go have “book club”. We would read lots of “books”. In fact, we would read so many “books” that we had difficulty thinking straight. Taw and I would then wake up in Long Beach and would head out to breakfast together. We basically would spend a straight 24 hours together. Yet we never wanted to kill one another.

When I got to Nagoya, Taw asked me “do you want to have a true Japanese experience?” I said “yeah”. He said “are you sure?” I said “yeah” then he said “do you want to go to an Onsen?” I knew what he was asking. Without even thinking I quickly said “yes”.

Japanese Onsen are kind of like very large hot tubs… except everyone in them is naked. The males and females are generally separate (though there are occasionally mixed onsens). You start by taking all your clothes off in the dressing room. You then head out to the onsen. All you take with you is a small hand towel. The hand towel is used to visually block your “special area”. This hand towel is used very liberally by most of the men. The first thing you do when you get to the onsen area is take a shower. You sit on a small chair while you clean yourself with soap and water. This is all done publicly with all the other males. Then after you are cleaned you go to the sauna where you let your body soak in the heat. This is once again done while in the nude. Then after being in the sauna for a short period of time you move on to the large bath house. In some cases these are outside, in other cases they are inside. The bathhouses are like very large hot tubs except the water in them has a lot of natural minerals that makes your body feel very smooth.

A few quick comments, First, I have never in my life been around that many naked men. So if a major catastrophe ever strikes the United States where all clothes disintegrates I will be better prepared to cope then many other Americans. Also, never in my life have Taw and I been naked in front of one another. Both Taw and I decided this brings our relationship to a new level. I have now seeing my former math coach naked (does it sound as weird as it feels to write?). The Japanese onsen felt great. It was so relaxing being there. Without a doubt I will be participating in these many more times before I leave Japan. I really want to do Aikido or take a run then go to an onsen and let my muscles just relax in the heat.

Apparently, in Japanese culture Onsens are often used to break the ice between business associates. This means that often ones very first meeting with their Japanese business associates they are naked. To the Japanese this is normal. To me, it isn’t. I was surprised though because after I got naked I felt pretty comfortable. Another interesting thing that I learned is that many Japanese families take family outings to onsens just like we take an outing to a park. They will bring the entire family and just relax. They then will break to go get lunch and come back and relax in the onsen some more. This creates a culture where they are much more comfortable with their nudity.

As could be assumed I was not able to take any pictures. I imagine no one would want to see them anyways (but stranger things have happened). Also, it is against the rules of the onsen to take any pictures (which makes sense). So for those of you that were wishing for a picture I apologize (in this case the wants of the many are going to have to outweigh the wishes of the few).

Finding Hombo Dojo

So I woke up this morning around 7 am which is perfect because it gave me about 9 hours of sleep. I got up and organized myself and then went down to the lobby to find out where Hombo Dojo is. Hombo dojo is the most famous Aikido dojo in the world. It is basically the central location of all Aikido. I would Akin it to the White House of the Aikido World.

I had read in my guide how people in Tokyo don't like to say they don't know where something is so it is always best to ask multiple people how to find a location. this definitley was proven true this morning. Last night I had asked the woman at the counter (her name was Marie and was very nice) how to get to hombo dojo. I showed her a map and gave her the address. I then pulled out another map. She very confidentely explained to me how i could do it. She said it would be about 30 to 40 minutes walking maybe 10 to 15 minutes by public transportation. I decided that I was going to walk it because it gives me a better feel for the city. This morning when i woke up i asked the new person at the counter and he gave me way different directions. Marie had me going in a similar direction except approximately 3 times the distance further. I decided I was going to go with this guys decision simply because his distance was shorter. Well after searching for approximately an hour and a half I finally found the dojo. This is the funny part. His directions were perfect! But Tokyo is confusing. Elibear, this place is definitley not on a grid. It is funny because every person here I show the map too has a difficult time finding where we even are on the map.

It gets better. Hombo Dojo is actually super easy to find. Now, that I know where it is I will easily get there in under 10 minutes from hostel which means I will be training atleast today and tomorrow and possibly Sunday if i can wash my gi on Saturday.

I also find it humorous that had I followed Marie's directions to get to Hombo Dojo I would have probably gotten lost along the way and it wasn't anywhere remotely close to the actual dojo location.

I like travelling around and trying to find things.